DOSSIER DRIES
Archival field note on the soundtrack to Dries Van Noten’s Spring Summer 2023 womenswear collection.
I’m all ears. . . Archival field note on the soundtrack to Dries Van Noten’s Spring Summer 2023 womenswear collection.
momentum: Julian Klausner appointed as Dries Van Noten’s rightful successor
archive: field note on the women SS2023 collection
specifically mentioned by the designer himself when asked about his estimation of risk-taking; a collection emblematic of the brand’s outspoken and incomparable legacy
context: all senses as possible entry points to cover fashion
Up until then, I had only considered the audible side of things through the lens of fashion’s inherent soundtrack generated by garments and fabric. However, with the notion of worldbuilding many designers are dedicated to, it seemed only right to – besides the material soundtrack – also consider the actual soundtrack to which the looks are first presented to the world. No sooner said than done. Having chosen the Dries Van Noten SS2023 womenswear collection as my case study, I decided to see what my findings would be.
notes:
odd, unfamiliar
That’s what springs to mind as I’m about to ‘watch’ the latest Dries Van Noten show. For the next few minutes, it will be my ears that lay eyes on these silhouettes’ debut; their first impressions gradually translated to a holographic depiction of what it is I’m unable to witness with my eyes. My sensorial anticipation narrowed down to a single sense.
For now, I’m all ears...
Before the very first tone has even had the time to fully be registered, I’m already in query as to what type of silhouettes would be flaunting the space.
Going by the echoing sound of heels [heels heels],
I’m imagining an open space.
There’s a certain rhythmic repetition to the music.
But certainly not a sound I was expecting.
Would the same be true for the looks?
A collection still embedded in the Dries DNA,
yet in some way different or unexpected?
But then the music picks up yet in some way different or unexpected?
Another layer is added that evokes in me a brief moment
of recollection, although I can’t pinpoint it.
h
a
n
g
i
n
a
n
g
i
n
g
Have I indeed heard something similar before, or is my mind just playing tricks on me ? Are the looks shown at this very moment met with a similar kind of familiarity reflected in the gaze of those present in the room? Or am I just overthinking it all at this point?
Nevertheless, I can’t
s h a k e
the feeling
that this show is somehow meant as a benchmark of orientation when it comes to the Dries Van Noten DNA. The audience at first still a bit apprehensive, perhaps even lost, in the dark as to it all. But bit by bit [or better, beat by beat] provided with audible leads to slowly get
back
on
track.
And sure enough, the first words haven’t even fully been ushered or it all clicks. My episodic memory didn’t fail me, as I was right in thinking I recognised the sound. None other than...
BLONDIE!
At this point, I’m confident that the audible build up somehow must find an equal in the collection itself. I imagine that by now the room is filled with a medley of vibrant colours and floral motives. Whereas at the very beginning, the room must have looked a whole lot different, understated and toned down
dark colours, perhaps even veiled in
all black.
intigued as to how [in]accurate my notes were...
show disclosed on DVN website under ‘silent archives’
quite [or better quiet] literally, the sound stripped
show with soundtrack disclosed on DVN YouTube Channel
december.2024